Our not-so-spooky Halloween decor

Place a faux raven here, there, and everywhere. Sprinkle in some spiders and you have a natural take on Halloween decor.

I’m back. Or at least I think so. I’ve taken an almost three-year hiatus from blogging, but a sweet client-turned-friend suggested I return to spread some joy–or at least some decorating ideas. If joy follows, all the better. Given this is the month of Halloween, let’s start with some ideas to get your house looking spooktacular, shall we?

Ten points if you spot the eyeballs in the fireplace.

First up: DIY ping pong ball eyeballs. They’re quick, easy and just the right amount of eye-catching fun.

Simply paint a a medium-sized colored circle (blue, green, or brown) on a ping pong ball for the iris. Once it’s dry, paint a smaller black circle in the center to create the pupil; add a dab of white for the highlight. Let dry and, in the blink of an eye, the peepers are ready to be placed.

Once I realized how easy these were to make, I made more and more. And positioned them in every fun setting I could think of.

The same dear client mentioned earlier gave us this potted Chrysanthemum. I used bubble wrap to prop it up in this old urn, filled the voids around the sides with more bubble wrap, covered the visible bubble wrap with dried moss, and added ping pong eyeballs to make it come “alive”.

Ping pong ball eyeballs will turn a potted Chrysanthemum into a “creature” before your very eyes.

Use white beach balls to create oversized googly eyes perfect for decorating your yard. Paint a medium-sized colored circle for the iris. Once dry, paint a smaller-sized black pupil. We bought these balls from the Oriental Trading Company nearly four years ago for Kai’s first birthday party. We’ve inflated and deflated them over the years to play and decorate with and they’ve held up well. You can find a dozen 11″ ones for $9.99 here.

Insert the balls into a tree or bush for some eye-popping effects!

No matter how hard I try to keep up with the cobwebs that develop in the corners of our house, they appear faster than I can brush them away. Luckily, this is the one time of year, the more cobwebs the better!

Faux cobwebs add an instant hint of haunted-house!

You might be surprised at the natural decor you can find in your own backyard. To the left of the brutalist sculpture is some “sculpture” from nature: what remained of the fruit bunch of our date palm. It had such interesting lines, I picked it off the ground and popped it on top of our SABA stereo/console months ago and it has lived there ever since. It joins the composition of one of my favorite pieces of art in our house which is a painting of a paper grocery bag from Safeway. Quirky meets quirky.

This might be the only time of year when silk flowers are acceptable. 🙂 You can find black silk roses here.

Here’s the big picture including our mural wall depicting Waikiki circa the 1940s. The photographic mural from EazyWallz makes the living room feel like it has two views: one out the window and one on the wall.

I use these wooden HANDSKALAD hands from IKEA in some form, year-round and they fit right into our Halloween ensemble. They’re well-crafted with moveable digits, just weird enough to be interesting, and, at $12.99 each, they’re a frighteningly great price!

For some feathered Halloween decor, add a faux raven or two (did you know a group of ravens is called “an unkindness?” Strange, but true! Apparently it may have something to do with their association with witches and death–perfect for All Hallows’ Eve, eh?). I realize they’re made of foam and plastic and glued-on feathers, but they have so much personality. When we’re eating in the dining room, I like to gaze at the one perched on the pumpkin. It almost feels like it’s staring back at me. You can find source an unkindness here.

This cluster of Lumina pumpkins came about from a single pumpkin I plopped onto the dirt last year because I couldn’t bear to toss it after the holiday season had passed. It took months for it to rot, but when it finally we did, we tilled the soil, it happened to rain and pumpkin leaves started sprouting. And then…baby white pumpkins grew just in time for Halloween. The magic of Mother Nature! The lesson here is you can purchase one pumpkin you love, plant it after the holiday and next year you may have a dozen or more!

Other view! I like to fill a few vases with a single fern frond as they make me think of a (green) feather quill pen resting in a pot of (clear) ink. The vases can be found here.

This large spider was a recent addition from Target and adds a lot of drama to the dining area for only $10!

This poseable skeleton gets moved throughout the house depending on our moods. Sometimes he eats dinner with us, sometimes he takes a “rest” in the swinging chair outside, or he’ll make a surprise appearance in the living room sitting on the console, legs crossed and all. We purchased ours from Costco, but they’re also available here.

I gussied him up with a sequined masquerade mask, (similar one found here) a cowboy hat and a black bandana to make him feel a little less skeletal. As long as our son isn’t scared by him (he requested we pull him out of the attic mid September), we aren’t either. 😉

This is the view from our kitchen into the dining room. I love seeing the tablescape filtered through the leaves of the olive branches. A simple branch adds such interesting organic appeal and instant decor. This is one of my favorite glass vases and can be found here.

The furry fake tarantulas these days are frighteningly realistic and add just the right amount of creepy-crawly to a coffee table.

Here’s the living room view.

Did I mention I liked fake spiders? They seem to be multiplying at our house.

For years I’ve hung wreaths on our glass door using Command hooks made for hanging on glass, but this year I ran out of the sticker tabs that make them adhere. So I pulled a small suction cup off the back of a magnifying mirror and stuck it to the glass, bent a paperclip into a U-shape and jammed it into the back of the feathered wreath to create a hook and hung it on the suction cup hanging on the door. We’ve had two crazy wind storms and I’m happy to report, so far it’s sticking! I know a lot of people like to hang a holiday wreath on a living room or kitchen window and this trick would work for that, as well.

Do you recognize this Sandworm from the 1980s movie Beetlejuice? I’m not usually a fan of exterior inflatable decor, but when I saw this one at Home Depot last year, it struck me as modern art . It was more than I wanted to spend so I waited until a few days before Halloween to make my purchase when the price was cut in half. My sister taught me that trick. You have to be a little patient to accrue your arsenal of holiday decor this way, but if you can wait until just before, or after, the holiday you’ll find most items are reduced to half price or less!

Upon seeing our 9.5′ tall inflatable Sandworm, my mom declared, through a gale of giggles, “There goes the neighborhood!”

The last time I posted, Kai was a toddler. Here he is now, nearly five.

I hope you have a frightfully fun Halloween and that some of these ideas will inspire you to add some Halloween holiday spirit to your home. Thanks for stopping by! 🙂

The New Shibori? Bleached Denim Fabric


A while back, Kristin Jackson, author of the blog The Hunted Interior did something revolutionary with denim:  she splattered it with bleach, gave it a rinse and dry, then used it to recover her clients’ chairs. (See below.)








Brilliant, right?




I could hardly wait to try this technique, but could not quite convince any of my clients to stray from some of the safer fabric choices to the world of bleach-splattered denim. So I decided to go first and make a chair cushion of my own. Like a design guinea pig if you will.



And it was so wonderfully easy.



I was lucky enough to find a roll of denim at a local fabric store offering deep discounts on remnants, but you can also find denim here. I purchased a gallon of bleach from the 99 Cents Only Store from which I poured approximately one cup (per yard of fabric) into a plastic disposable cup. I used an eye dropper to dribble and drop the bleach in a controlled way before I decided to throw caution to the wind and use a spoon to splash it on willy nilly.



Note: at first you may think nothing is happening. I even asked myself, “Did I accidentally buy indoor/outdoor, stain-resistant denim?” The bleach beaded on the surface of the fabric and the color remained unchanged.











Then ten minutes or so later, things started happening. It was like watching a photo emulsify. The pattern started to appear, faintly at first.










Then, bam! The white became whiter and, in contrast, the blue appeared even bluer.  As soon as the fabric reached this stage, I immediately gave it a thorough rinse in cold water so the bleach would cease bleaching (I didn’t want it to deteriorate the fabric), and set it in the sun to dry.










I was so thrilled with the results, I draped my bleached fabric in various poses throughout our house. It was like the gnome in the Travelocity ads, posed in various locations, although it never traveled outside my front door. (Because I wasn’t going to part with it! 🙂 .)












I was so smitten, I used it to create a cushion for a princess chair I’d restrung over winter during the many days we stayed indoors to avoid the ashy air of the Thomas Fire.










Full disclosure: in part, I’m writing this post so when I mention this idea to a client in the future, and I’m met with a raised eyebrow, in response, I’ll direct the doubter here. Ha ha.



This could be the next Shibori. It’s a little Jackson Pollock in its splattered modern art-ness. It’s unexpected. Each piece is a one-off (bespoke, anyone?), and it’s blue and white which I’d argue is one of the most classic color combinations in the history of ever.



Please let me know if you try it. I think you’ll be happy you do. If you have any questions, feel free to write in the comments section and I’ll be sure to respond.







Happy decorating! 🙂


DIY Mud Cloth fabric: a tutorial!


I had been wanting to try my hand at DIY mud cloth–you know, the black and white patterned fabric that has been the design darling of the tribal/Boho/a-black-and-white-pallete-is-all-the-rage movement? Then I did some research about how the real (authentic, and notably expensive) stuff is made and suddenly its steep price seemed justified and it felt almost sacrilegious to even attempt to knock-off what is a very involved textile art form.




Mud cloth has even been popping up on Pinterest in the form of stockings (second from left and far right)!



Yet I did it anyway. With a clear conscience, I can’t really call this a DIY mud cloth tutorial, except in the title, or how else would you have landed here? Rather, what I’ll provide is a tutorial for a technique that, depending on the pattern you follow (confession: I made mine up), can result in a fabric that looks quite similar to the real thing. And if not exactly the same, still cool in its own right.




A wing chair, partially upholstered in mud cloth, by woodworker Ariele Alasko, got the ol’ wheels turning.




I’d argue this technique (inspired by this post) is better than some of the other incarnations of DIY mud cloth on the internet that suggest using a white marker on black cloth (although this one that shows how to make dinner napkins using that method does get a gold star).





I saw this on Instagram and was sorry October had already passed. If you want to get a head start on faux pumpkins for Halloween in a mud cloth motif, click here.




But before we begin, I would be remiss if I didn’t include at least a CliffsNotes version of the history of mud cloth. After all, education fosters appreciation. The next time you pick up a pillow with mud cloth fabric on the face (it is so valuable, it tends to be reserved for one side only) the price might not be such a shock; any irregularities will make more sense (it’s handmade); and it would be nice to think you just helped support a laborer who is likely working more, but eating less than you. To ensure the mud cloth is from a legit source, you can always buy it fair trade.




Another shot from that clever Ariele Alasko. Note how she used the base of an antique sewing machine (that she found on the sidewalk–way better than a penny or quarter, eh?) to prop up her desk.




What exactly is mud cloth?


Mud cloth is handmade in Western Africa, specifically Mali, in a process dating back to the 12th century. Traditionally men wove the cotton into narrow strips which they then sewed into a larger piece and the women did the dyeing. Today men tend to be responsible for the entire production of this ever-popular product.


The pieced together fabric is dyed in baths of leaves from the n’gallama tree which turn it yellow. The fabric is dried then painted in intricate patterns using mud that has been fermented for over a year in clay pots. The residual acid of the leaf-solution causes the fabric to have a chemical reaction with the iron oxide in the mud, turning the mud-painted portions a dark grey. The fabric is left to dry in the sun, then washed to remove excess mud. This is done repeatedly until the areas painted with mud turn almost black. On the final rinse, the fabric is washed with a soap containing potash, shea butter, and peanuts to bleach the yellow areas back to their original ivory color.


The symbolic patterns are individual to each tribe and were used to tell stories passed down from mother to daughter. Some are widely understood (concentric circles represent the Earth), but many remain unbroken codes.


In the 1980s, fashion designer Chris Seydou (1949-1994) brought mud cloth to the runways where it had its fleeting fashion moment only to fade into textile obscurity until…now.  Note to self: never throw anything out unless it threatens to attract mice or mold. What’s out will once again be in.



There. Done. See, now you are at least ten times smarter.



So how do you make mud cloth, minus the mud? Here’s how.







Elmer’s Washable, No Run School Glue Gel. (Found here.)


Dylon Velvet Black Permanent Dye. (Found here.)


I used 100% linen fabric, but 100% cotton should work just as well.




Mud cloth covering an ottoman: such a good idea!





Google “mud cloth patterns” and you’ll find plenty to choose from. I read that squeezing the glue bottle can cause a lot of hand cramping (true) so I made up a simple pattern I could apply easily and freehand. If you’re nervous about drawing freehand, you can always use carbon paper to trace a design printed from the internet onto your fabric–or, at the very least, use a pencil and ruler. I’m not so patient so I went rogue and dove in.



The exasperating beading effect of Elmer’s gel glue. Sadly, swear words and threats to throw the bottle across the room do nothing to ameliorate the situation, but reapplication (once, sometimes twice) will do the trick.









Squeeze the glue on the portions of your pattern that you want to remain the natural color of your fabric as the rest will be dyed black. And then the most annoying thing will happen! Just when you think you are almost done, you’ll look back and about half the area you covered will have disappeared. This is because this glue that is so magical in the way it performs like a wax resist without all the mess of hot wax, also does a bit of a disappearing act as it tends to bead up just when you thought you were finished. Go over the missing areas and make sure to watch the glue as it dries so you can redo any spots before all of the glue dries fully. Allow the glue to dry for 12 hours or overnight.




The results of my DIY mud cloth. Totally black (not grey or purple, phew!).



Follow the instructions for dyeing the fabric–sort of. I say this because the package tells you how much water to add to the dye (4 cups) but then instructs you to “fill a bowl/sink with enough warm water for the fabric to move freely”. This was all too vague for me, especially since I had read many disappointing reviews for the dye (which is often used to revitalize faded black denim and was frequently purported to turn it grey, at best, or worse: purple), so I did not add any more water beyond the 4 cups used for the dye bath itself. I had very low expectations so I increased my dyeing time a half hour beyond the recommended time.




My DIY mud cloth used as a table runner.



Rinse your dyed fabric in cold water until the water runs clear, then use warmer water to remove the glue. Full disclosure: my fingernails removed more glue than the warm water did. I let the fabric dry in the sun, then ironed it on a medium setting to further set the color. Not sure if this step was really necessary, but it did make the wrinkled fabric smooth so it seemed logical.



My DIY mud cloth draped on a chair that normally resides in Kai’s nursery.



And there you have it. Your very own inexpensive, fun and easy to make DIY mud cloth!





Happy decorating! 🙂
















DIY Shibori dyeing tips!

To date, we have 53 days left of summer. That means fifty-three diminishing days of ocean dips, late-night dinners, and forgetting you even own a sweater. It’s around this time that I find myself clinging, with perspiring palms, to the multitude of reasons summer is my favorite season. For example, blue and white textiles–especially Shibori dyed textiles.


Surely you have noticed the Shibori mania.



Photo source




Shibori, an ancient Japanese method of folding fabric and dyeing it with indigo dye, dates back to 8th century Japan, but has been trending heavily for the last two years and, at the moment, its popularity is waxing more than waning.








Shibori stems from a Japanese word meaning “to wring, squeeze and press” and arose during a time when those who did not have a budget for buying cotton and silk garments repaired and dyed their faded hemp attire, giving it a new life and new style.







Today Shibori patterns are formed using various techniques of folding and twisting undyed natural fiber fabric (100% white cotton seems to work the best) and dipping it into a vat of indigo dye. Once the bound fabric is unwound, the resist pattern reveals itself.



A blog site that offers a great visual tutorial of the folding methods and dyeing process can be found here. But I found there was nothing like the trial and error of doing it myself and I have tried to round up my best pointers for this post as I found some conflicting information between various DIY posts and the directions that come with the dye kit.



Itajime fold using a drop cloth for the fabric and squares of cardboard in lieu of wooden blocks.



Select the items you will dye bearing in mind that natural fibers will accept the dye the best. Be resourceful. Use cardboard, binder clips, PVC pipes, rubber bands and twine as your “tools”.



Prewash and dry your fabric, then submerge it in clean, cold water and squeeze out the excess. I used a Home Depot bucket to mix my dye. Wearing gloves, I lowered my fabric into the dye bath holding it just below the surface (it will want to float). The instructions warn you to not let the items sink to the bottom as they can pick up fallen sediment. With my first dyeing attempt, I held mine just below the surface with my gloved hands and within 10 minutes, my brand new rubber kitchen gloves started to fail and my hands were dyed a lovely shade of blue. Eventually I decided it didn’t actually make a difference if items touched the bottom, and towards the end of my dyeing endeavor, I was shoving as many pieces as I could into the bucket, weighing them down with rocks from our garden, and I did not notice any marks made due to touching sediment at the bottom of the bucket.



Home Depot bucket for indigo dyeing




The package advertises the kit can dye more than 15 shirts or 5 lbs of fabric. I dyed somewhere near that and still had dye left over to share with my neighbor, but you must keep in mind that it lasts 3 – 5 days. On day 4 it went from full intensity to losing nearly all potency and my poor neighbors ended up with shorts dyed with the palest of baby blue patterns, not the deep indigo they intended.








The longer you dye your fabric, the deeper the hue. You can also remove the dyed fabric, set it out to oxidize for a bit (20 minutes is good) and then stick it back into the dye vat (just make sure not to unbind the piece until you are completely finished dyeing it). After some trial and error, I began to prefer dyeing pieces for 30 minutes, setting them out to oxidize for 20 minutes and then redyeing for another 30 minutes and leaving them to oxidize for an hour or more before unwrapping. This gave the intense indigo I was after. You may want to experiment with a scrap and start with ten minutes of dyeing as a baseline.




Our outdoor ping pong table made an impromptu drying rack. Good thing it was already a dark blue!




Once removed from the dye, the fabric will take 20 minutes or so to fully oxidize. When you first pull it out, it will look yellowish-green, but before your eyes it will begin to appear deep blue. (Note: it will lighten as it dries so don’t trust this initial blue as the final color.)




I read conflicting advice on the next step, (the kit says one thing; DIY blogs another), but found that the best way to keep the indigo color as dark and vibrant as possible was to let my oxidized, unbound fabric dry in the sun; once dry, hand wash it with cold water and mild detergent; then either dry it in the dryer set to the hottest setting or line dry it and then heat-set it with an iron set to the hottest setting







There are various folding techniques that can be found online. My two favorites were the Itajime technique (accordion fold fabric lengthwise flipping it back and forth as you go, then accordion fold your long rectangular piece into a square, then sandwich the folded square between two pieces of wood; hold the wood pieces in place using rubber bands). All of the instructions seemed to recommend using two blocks of wood for this process, but the dyeing kit only comes with one pair of wood blocks and they are fairly small, so I experimented using squares of cardboard and happily discovered they worked just as well although you will need to use new pieces for each time you dye.




The Itajime fold




The dyed and unfolded Itajime looks like this which I could definitely see being used as pillow, bedspread, or even window treatment (I’m picturing a Roman shade for a kitchen with all-white cabinets).




The Itajime fold, unfolded




Not knowing the name of this next technique (although please tell me if you know; it was one of my favorites), I called it Rubber Band Circles. I’d twist the fabric either randomly or in rows and tightly secure the twists with a rubber band. The area where the rubber band was resists the dye and leaves a colorless circle.




The “Rubber Band Circles” technique




I was so crazy about how this particular technique turned out (I dyed linen for the piece shown below), I have been draping it everywhere (on the sofa, on the back of a dining room chair, on the chair in our office, shown below).







I sewed mine into a bolster pillow for our bed.







You know, the other design craze of the moment: the exaggeratedly long bolster pillow for the bed!







Note:  they aren’t kidding when they say use natural fiber fabric if you want to dye your fabric dark indigo. However, I was running out of some of my higher quality fabric so I cut a drop cloth (from Home Depot) in half and while it didn’t take the dye as well as the other pieces, it resulted in a more of a faded denim look, I can still see using it as a tablecloth, picnic blanket, or “blanket” to throw on the floor for our toddler to eat messy food on. The drop cloth fabric is also so thick it could definitely be used for upholstery (i.e., a bench seat or dining room chairs, a floor cushion or…the possibilities are endless!)








I realized I had a Shibori dyeing addiction when I rounded up all the fabric for this photo. It was hard not to want to dye every bit of white or light colored fabric in sight!




If Shibori dyeing sounds daunting at all, It shouldn’t. It’s really very simple. And you can always enlist your friends to help and host a Champagne and Shibori soiree!





Some great items to dye:
Flour sack dish towels (can be found at Target),
Fabric napkins (World Market is a good source)
Pillow covers, duvet covers, reusable grocery sacks, drop cloths, scarves, shirts, onesies (great baby shower presents), fabric for upholstery or fabric to sew into pillows




Indigo dye kit. I used this one.
Natural fiber fabric. I also used a drop cloth from Home Depot although it turned more light denim blue than indigo.
Cardboard (can be used instead of wood blocks for the Itajime technique)
Drop cloth (or plastic trash bags) for an area to work on that you don’t mind dyeing blue
Rubber bands (the kit will come with some but I found I needed about 3x that amount; two packages from the 99 Cents store solved that problem)
Long wooden stick to stir the dye (ask a paint store if they don’t mind you taking a stir stick)
PVC pipe (if you want to do the Arashi pole wrapping technique which you can find examples of online)




Happy Shibori-ing! 🙂

DIY: Faux clamshell with succulents!


You know that feeling when you figure out how to do something and you want to share it with the world? The other day I decided I wanted to make a faux giant clamshell filled with succulents that didn’t cost hundreds of dollars like the ones sold on sites such as Ballard Design and Houzz.




giant clam shell succulents

Source: Ballard Design



Well, inspiration struck, she didn’t let me down, and I want to share with you that you can do this, too! It’s so easy! The results are awesome! And it was very inexpensive! 🙂



I have long had an ooey gooey crush on giant clamshells, but their hundreds-plus price tag kept obstructing our conscious coupling. (Oh Gwennie Paltrow, may the lovely alliteration of your odd press statement live on.)





Source: Elle Decor





They are just so good looking.






Source: Unknown.




They add equal parts whimsy and style to any room…





Source: Unknown






And can be so versatile. Witness the planter-turned-drink-dispenser below.






giant clam shell drink dispenser

Source: Unknown.





But, again, so expensive, even for a faux version. Until now.




I began with a clear plastic clamshell.  I happened to purchase one years ago at a garage sale and occasionally used it to serve salad for the equally occasional tropical-themed party. But you can find the same thing at the Oriental Trading Company where they term theirs a Sea Shell Punch Bowl.



Lightly sand the shell, inside and out (focus on the exterior if you will only be using it as a planter and not a drink dispenser or decorative bowl to hold say blown glass balls).








To begin building the layers of the finish, spray the shell with white or cream colored spray paint.








Once the spray paint has dried, use a paint brush to paint the shell a cream color.







While (whilst?) the paint is still wet, sprinkle with sand. Note: we didn’t have any sand on hand, but we do have a DG (decomposed granite) pathway that has a lot of sand mixed with the DG, so I sourced my sand that way. This is all to say, don’t worry about taking this step too seriously. Sprinkle sand on, rub some off, add some more (like a chef seasoning a soup: just use your intuition) and you’ll get it right.







Here is my hand, paint-dotted fingernail and all, displaying the shell in between coats of paint and sand. After this point I brushed off some sand, added more paint, and tossed on more sand. Layering, folks, it’s all about the layering.









When I was happy with the look and the paint/sand was dry, I filled the planter with cacti/succulent potting mix and planted the succulents. Note: the online versions of faux clamshells stuffed with succulents come with faux succulents, but I think a faux shell is enough faux and opted for live plants. You will need to water the succulents about every week or so and if you will not be placing them in a sunny spot indoors, give them at lest an hour or two al fresco every few days to make sure they stay happy and healthy.









Here is the one I made for a client. We used it for her coastal-themed dining room.










And on my table…I couldn’t help making one for myself, now could I?

















And good ol’ Bunny Williams stuffs moss in hers (I think it goes without saying that I didn’t make hers), because she’s clever like that.










Happy weekend and happy decorating and happy faux giant clamshell succulent planter making–phew, a mouthful! 🙂






How to clean a sheepskin rug!


Things change.  Just the other day Oxford University Press announced Christopher Marlowe’s name will be cozying up next to Shakespeare’s as co-author of at least three plays in Henry VI. So after years of speculation and fine-tooth word-combing, we discover the Lone Bard wasn’t the sole scribe after all. Similarly, (if you are open to the word “similarly” being used very loosely), furniture made with galvanized metal and rivets and exposed bolts and parts that make it look like it hailed from an industrial center is not the hot commodity it once was. And, in the world of rugs, chevron rugs with all their zigs and zags, which used to seem so charmingly graphic, are now so “yesteryear”.




Source: Unknown.


And now?


Sheepskin rugs are today’s underfoot darling with their no-color, all-texture simplicity–and what a texture! You will want to sink your face into the thick fluff and stroke it like you are petting the dear lamb it once was–yet they have been around so long (heck, my grandmother used to decorate with them!) they seem in without risk of ever being out.



And they are lovely.




Add one to a plain chair that is crying out for a little something more and not only have you increased the style quotient, but padding for the tushy (and/or utilized the auxiliary side benefit of camouflaging caning that was badly in need of repair 🙂 ).





Source: Pop Sugar.



Have a crying baby? That wail could mean, “My nursery is missing a sheepskin rug!” Incorporate one and suddenly there is the softest, cloud-like landing for your little one who is just learning to crawl or walk. (Note: Most baby books warn that while the fleecy fluffiness of a sheepskin rug may make a beautiful backdrop for an Anne Geddes-esque photo, DO NOT let your infant sleep on one as there is a risk of resulting suffocation.)





Source: Elle Decor.



Ooh. Ahh.





Source: Elle Decor.




They seriously up the style ante.





Source: Elle Decor.



Design plan: remove two cushions from sofa. Place on floor. Drape a sheepskin rug on each. Done.





Source: Elle Decor.




They just look so amazing.





Source: Elle Decor.




Until they don’t.




Behold our sheepskin rug, purchased only two years ago, and in a very sullied state. (We have dogs. And apparently very dirty feet.)









Lackluster at best. Disgusting grimy-grossness at worst.






Source: Elle Decor.




While sheepskin rugs are fairly reasonably priced (you can find them at various sources such as Pottery Barn, Serena and Lily and Crate and Barrel; I found mine at Costco for $149), they are not so reasonably priced that you’ll want to replace one very often. So instead of casting mine off to Craigslist and buying a new one, I put two and two together: my hair always looks better when brushed. Let’s see if brushing will revive a sheepskin rug.



First, I shook it to remove loose dirt and debris. Because this was impulsive experiment, I used my actual hairbrush (which you can see–unless you avert your eyes, which I’d totally understand–has my actual hairs still in it!). I have since read that a wire-bristled pet brush is recommended and that certainly eliminates the questionable unhygienic practice of sharing a hairbrush with a surface that rests on the floor and is regularly walked upon. You may want to purchase said brush for this specific purpose because if you use the same brush you use for your dog or cat, you risk transferring dog or cat fur to your rug. (Interestingly, human hair which is much longer, does not present this problem.)







Settle in in front of the TV, turn on some music, or call your chattiest friend. When twenty minutes have passed, you will look down and ask yourself “Am I a magician because I just made magic happen?” The clumps and matted parts will be a thing of the past.
















brushed-sheepsking-rugUp close.






Source: Elle Decor.



My sheepskin could be salvaged with a simple brushing, but in cases where the sheepskin has been soiled by urine or vomit, or worse (I’m thinking about those nursery applications, here)  I searched the internet and there were quite a few sites–and videos–that recommend hand-washing in the bathtub. The process is as follows:



  1. Shake out the dirt.
  2.  Soak sheepskin in tub filled with COLD water (in case the all-caps were not screaming loudly enough, I’ll reiterate: if your sheepskin is Hillary Clinton, hot water is Donald Trump. As in “sworn enemies”.)
  3. Agitate the rug by hand. Some sites recommend using sheepskin cleaner, others Ivory hand soap or Johnson and Johnson Baby Shampoo. But, contrary to what intuition–and the use of the word “wool” on the label–might lead you to believe, almost every tutorial I read warned against using Woolite. Hmm.
  4. Rinse. Squeeze out the excess water without ringing or you may damage the hide and further matte the wool. Comb with a pet brush (although one site said to not brush while wet). Lay flat to dry or line-dry in enough sun without being in the direct sun. You want just the right amount of sun. (I think Goldilocks was weighing in on this one.)
  5. It can take up to 7 days to dry which might make you want to use the dryer. If you do, some sites recommended using dryer balls or tennis balls to fluff the rug. All sites said use the air setting only–NO HEAT!
  6. Once dry, it will still appear matted so you will need to call that friend, turn on the TV, or listen to NPR so you can hear more about Shakespeare being usurped as sole author, and brush until you can’t brush any more and then your rug will look new again. Ancillary upshot: your rug will not only be clean and smooth; your biceps will be bulging like you just lifted weights.




And, once, again, you’ll have a stylish rug that resembles this:






Source: Elle Decor.



And in the spirit of change, some wise words from Andy Warhol:



“They always say time changes things, but you actually have to change them yourself.” –Andy Warhol




DIY Modern Dining Table and Modern Bench!


When we first moved into our house almost three years ago, our circa 1958 dining room looked like this.




Dining room with pony wall first moved in




We replaced the existing sliding glass doors with wider, accordion-style doors from LaCANTINA which are essentially three panels of glass that are hinged together so you can either open one of the panels (one is designated for this purpose) as you would a regular swinging door, or push all the panels off to the side, leaving the entire opening free and clear–as opposed to a regular sliding glass door where one panel of glass slides and the other piece is always fixed in place. Boring explanation aside, the door is awesome and when it is fully ajar, suddenly the dining/living room feels that much bigger because the inside and outside read like one continuous space.




La Cantina door outside

I believe our cat thinks it’s awesome, too.




For anyone who is thinking of installing these types of doors, I give a giant thumbs up, but a couple of things to note are if you can possibly keep your inside flooring material (e.g., wood; carpet; tile) in the same color family as any exterior flooring (e.g., wood; stone; concrete) the more seamless the effect is. In our case, we didn’t do this, because we kind of have this somewhat unintentional, but once recognized, appreciated and adhered to, theme of warm wood and concrete going everywhere, but if you HAD the option to stay in one color family, it would make the space seem that much larger.



The LaCANTINA door comes with three options of threshold heights and we found the trades (the salesman and installer and the company that poured our concrete patio) were adamant that we install a tall threshold to prevent rain from entering the interior, but that would have killed the smooth transition we were after. We were temporarily torn about what to do (we certainly didn’t want to welcome water into the house, but we didn’t want to relinquish our goal of creating a patio that was level with the interior floor it abutted). In the end, the solution was to go with the ADA threshold which isn’t completely flush, but close to it, and have the concrete crew cut into the stucco of our exterior walls and lay a waterproof membrane at the new height of the patio (the patio had to be extra thick in order to be flush with the interior floors); grade the patio so water only had one direction to flow–away from the house!–and to install a few French drains at any point we figured water would want to collect. Granted, rain in California is now as rare as unicorns, but we did get a few heavy rains post installation this past winter, and I’m happy to report nary a drop worked its way inside. Should you do this? The answer is consult with your builder or contractor as the slope of your individual property must be factored in and trapping moisture must always be avoided, but, if possible, it’s certainly ideal to avoid two different heights for both aesthetic reasons and to avoid tripping.




Modern dining table RH chairs pendant dining lights




We painted the walls Benjamin Moore’s Simply White (in an eggshell sheen), replaced the existing chandelier with pendant lights from RH and added taller (5″ inch tall) baseboard. Side note: tall baseboard is one of those little details that is actually huge! Most builder-grade homes have diminutive baseboard, 3 1/2″ or shorter, as well as slim door and window casing, while higher-end homes and homes that were built prior to the 1950s, tend to have more generous trim. It’s true that many fancier and older homes have 9′ or taller ceilings, whereas builder-grade homes, and–darn it!–our, home has 8′ ceilings, so scale is at play, but there is something about good (and tall) trim that just adds a feeling of solid craftsmanship and tells the eye, “You are looking at quality.” So, whenever possible, I suggest replacing baseboard with something that is at least 4 1/4″ and, yes it depends on the style of your home, but nine times out of ten, I’d suggest avoiding flourishes like ogee detail and stick with the good ol’ clean lines of a straight or eased-edge Craftsman style baseboard.



Ogee baseboard detail

Ogee detail at top of the baseboard


Craftsman baseboard


Plain and simple.




Fast forward to the point where our new floors are installed, we have our fireplace stuccoed to look like concrete (you can read all about that here) and we removed that weird pole that dropped down from the ceiling and died into the top of the pony wall. That left the next step: removing the wood cap from the pony wall.




Pony wall with cap




Once the cap was removed, we were left with something like this…




Pony wall wood cap removed





We capped the pony wall with two pieces of Douglas Fir joined with construction adhesive (and clamped together as tightly as possible while the adhesive dried). We did a test run below.





Wood cap on pony wall copy

It fit!




Because this is only a temporary fix until we can spring for truly gutting and remodeling the kitchen, we attached the stained and finished Douglas Fir top by screwing it into the pony wall from the top down. If you were going to do this somewhat permanently, I’d suggest counter-sinking said screws and covering them with dowels that can be stained to match. We’re calling our exposed screws good enough and declaring them “Industrial Chic”–or the term I’m trying to coin: “Industic”.




Bar stools pony wall




Okay, but “The table, the table!” you might be saying. Okay, getting there. We wanted a realllly long (96″) table following the principle that bigger furniture often makes a space look bigger than if you try to stick multiple tiny pieces in a room and your eye just reads the space as so small that it can only accommodate Lilliputian-sized stuff.



So we wanted to go big and what we wanted was this Parson’s table from RH.





RH Parsons Table

RH’s Arles Rectangular Table in Grey Walnut.



But at $3,295, for the 96″ x 39″ x 30″ table, the price was steep, especially when I read the fine print that disclosed it only has veneer of Walnut wood. (Humph!)




We also liked this one.







Roebling Live-Edge RH tablejpg

RH’s Roebling Live-Edge Walnut Table



But at $14,995 for a 96″ x 44″ x 30″ table this was not only a wee bit wider than we wanted, but beyond a wee bit exorbitant and since we had already eaten up nearly the entire budget on five RH Rizzo chairs, we needed a new plan.




RH Rizzo Dining Chairs

RH’s Rizzo chairs



So the plan was hatched to BUILD OUR OWN, from solid planks of wood! It all started with the customizable welded stainless steel legs that JB found from SteelImpression on Etsy. I cannot say enough good things about this company. Not only did the price seem reasonable ($220, including shipping, for the pair), but they had them finished and en route two days after we placed our order. We realized if we made the tabletop with the roughest grade of Redwood Home Depot carried, the boards were only $38 x 4 = $152 plus $220 legs, we were back on budget!



The following picture shows Douglas Fir boards since we started with DF boards which we glued together only to discover they didn’t stay that way (the fourth board, even after a second round of adhesive, refused to stay attached), which is how the pony wall cap project was born (waste not, want not). I am including this photo to show the important first step of using construction adhesive …



Glue redwood diy dining table





And biscuit joints! The combination of the two was the only way we could get four 96″ long boards to work as a team.





Biscuit joint DIY dining table





I cannot stress enough how crucial it is to keep the boards clamped together while drying.





Clamping DIY redwood modern dining table




After the four boards were properly joined, JB sanded them starting with 60 grit then working his way to 100, 150 then 120 grit.  We used Minwax stain (color: Provincial) and sealed the top and bottom (to prevent moisture from entering and warping the boards) with Varathane clear water-based Polyurethane in Satin. On that note, if you have room inside (i.e., your garage), let the wood dry there and not outside where it will risk warping due to the elements (a misty morning or dewy evening is enough to cause some warping and create moisture blemishes on your finish).



Next was the bench which was much easier since it was just one piece of wood that needed to be cut and sanded.




DIY dining bench staining

We cut the bench to 74″ long to work with the 96″ long table.




Again with the staining and sealing. Once dry, we flipped it over and screwed in the custom legs. Also from SteelImpressions on Etsy.





Here is the bench where we first positioned it, against the wall, so the RH chairs could be more on display.





Modern dining bench




Like this…





DIY Modern dining table RH leather chairs





Once I reversed the chairs and bench for a photo shoot, I realized the dining room appeared much more open and airy–and the good lines of the bench were no longer hidden–when the bench was placed on the open side of table.




Like so…





DIY modern bench DIY modern dining table




There you have it.



Very easy. Fairly inexpensive, certainly loads less than an RH table, and not a veneer, but solid, sandable wood.



And one more time…the Before (in preparation for hardwood floors and from the looks of that stag painting project in the background, Tannenbaum Time).




Dining Room before with carpet torn up




And After…




Modern dining table modern dining bench




Wood for table: Four pieces of 2″ x 12” x 96″ rough-hewn Redwood planks from Home Depot at $38 each. We trimmed each board to 10″ wide so with four boards the final width of the table is 40″;  the length is 96″ and with the legs it is 30″ tall.


Legs for table: $220, Steel Impressions from Etsy. 29″ tall x 36″ wide–total width, including the opening between the legs.


Wood for bench: One piece of rough-hewn Redwood 2″ x 12″ x 96″ cut to 74″ long, $38.


Legs for bench:  $160, Steel Impressions from Etsy. 17″ tall x 10″ wide–total width, including the opening between the legs.


Stain: Minwax in color Provincial $8 per quart


Finish: Varathane Polyurethane, Satin, water-based $17 per quart


Total cost for the DIY modern table: $397


Total cost for the DIY modern bench: $98



Happy Saturday! 🙂


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My Pet Cloud: A children’s book you won’t want to throw against the wall!


You know how people say, “I’d love to write a children’s book”? Well, my mom and I did it! I wrote it, my mom (Lyn Gianni, an artist by trade) illustrated it and it’s now available at Amazon.com and Chaucer’s Bookstore here in Santa Barbara.




My Pet Cloud front cover






The inspiration came from my sister who conjured up the title. We all kind of sat on the idea for years until JB and I got married and I decided now is the time to write a children’s book. I became pregnant soon after so I must have had kids on the brain!



Microsoft Word - My Pet Cloud for upload.doc




The story is this: We have all seen shapes in the clouds but the young boy looks up and finds a special cloud. He names the cloud Harold and they become inseparable (except when Harold has to go indoors, of course) friends for life.



Microsoft Word - My Pet Cloud for upload.doc




Harold and the boy play and share adventures and the cloud is a reassuring presence. The boy learns that he can count on Harold for support and even though the cloud may disappear for a little while, as people in our lives sometimes must (whether it’s a parent leaving for work or a date night, or something more serious like a relative or pet passing away) their strong connection ensures that Harold will always be there for him.



Microsoft Word - My Pet Cloud for upload.doc





Our goal was to create a children’s book that delivered a good message (you are not alone) via a fun concept (a cloud that could be your best buddy).




My Pet Cloud sleeping




The world can be a scary place, but it’s a little less scary when you have a pet cloud. What we really loved about the concept of the pet cloud was it was something every child could have access to: no matter how rich or poor, no matter where you live or how you live, every kid can have a pet cloud.




Microsoft Word - My Pet Cloud for upload.doc




I studied children’s books before writing My Pet Cloud, but it was purely in the context of research (to capture the correct cadence, get a feel for how many words per page, gauge age-appropriate subject matter, etc.) and it was before I had a child of my own. Now that Kai has come along and I’m reading the same books I had previously studied to him over and over (and over and over again!) I’m discovering that some of the ones I once liked, I can now barely stand.



Microsoft Word - My Pet Cloud for upload.doc






But I’m happy to say, My Pet Cloud is holding up to the “Parent Test”; it’s not only still likable after umpteen-plus readings, but I find more to like about it each time I read it.




Microsoft Word - My Pet Cloud for upload.doc





But you don’t have to just take my word for it; you can click here for some online reviews.



Microsoft Word - My Pet Cloud for upload.doc







If you’d like to own your very own copy of My Pet Cloud, it is available on Amazon.com.  It is also at Chaucer’s Bookstore in Santa Barbara.



For local readers, Chaucer’s (at 3321 State Street) is hosting a reading and book signing for my Pet Cloud this Sunday, April 3rd, from 2pm-3pm. I will be there singing copies of the book, with Kai in tow, and we’d love to see a friendly face if you can make it! 🙂



PS, Thank you to Matt Kettman and the Santa Barbara Independent for running a story on My Pet Cloud. The issue hit the stands today, but you can see an online version here.



Santa Barbara Independent My Pet Cloud 2


Photo credit Paul Wellman via the SB Independent.



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Happy Anniversary! DIY Rustic Wedding Decor Ideas!



This Sunday marks the one-year anniversary of my wedding to JB. In commemoration, I’m posting the column I wrote two days prior to our Big Day.  Imagine prepping for a DIY wedding that was taking up every spare moment meaning I hadn’t had time to pen my vows and, thus, was agonizing over writing them at 9:30 pm the night before, praying I’d come up with something that elicited at least a few giggles from the guests and, of course, would be meaningful to my future husband when all I really wanted to do was fall into a deep slumber from the utter exhaustion brought on by the two days straight we spent outdoors setting up for the event during the 90 degree heat wave–and my column was due just two days before the wedding; ack, it was a hectic time! Included are photos of some of the DIY decor we tackled for our rustic wedding. I’m happy to say I met my deadline (for the column and the vows, although I was editing them down to the last minute while my hair was being curled and brushed into submission). The column ran the morning of our wedding: 9/13/14. Enjoy! 🙂





Happily Ever After SignSimple sign created from leftover planks of hardwood flooring, painted with lettering and nailed to a piece of plywood.





The day this column appears in print, I’ll be standing at the end of a borrowed carpet runner, poised beneath a makeshift copper arch, and gripping (likely with perspiring palms) my homemade bouquet. And uttering some (hopefully) profound words which will culminate in the momentous proclamation of (gulp!) “I do”. Today is the day I marry the best man I’ve ever known.






Wedding dog tuxedo LiloSweet Lilo, my Chiweenie, sporting a tuxedo from Petco.





If you and I had hours to spare, I’d tell you about the panic attacks, the pages and pages of “To Do” lists that caused me to bolt upright in bed wondering, “Did I…?” and the multitude of design decisions that had us thinking, “Eloping would’ve been so much easier!” Because–everyone was right, planning a wedding is a lot like having a second job–one that costs more than it pays! But along the way we discovered some design ideas we really loved, and since they were DIY, they helped keep the budget down. So without further ado (after all, I have a wedding to get to!) here are some of our favorite homespun wedding decor ideas.





Chalkboard frame signsOh the many uses of a framed chalkboard sign.





Love signs: Chalkboard signs are a perfect way to convey table numbers, label an unrecognizable dish such as, say, “Vegan Bratwurst” or explain the contents of a drink dispenser containing “Cucumber water”. When marked with the words “Love” or “thanks!” these signs do double-duty as props held by the bride and groom for photos that can later be printed into custom thank you cards. And, unlike so much wedding decor, chalkboard signs can be wiped clean and used for party decor throughout the year. (Imagine “Boo” or “Pumpkin soup” in October.)





Chalkboard framed Love sign DIY wedding decorLove signs.





99 cents store frameFrame from the 99 Cents Only store.






Spray paint glassRemove glass insert and spray with aerosol chalkboard paint.







Chalkboard paint on glassLet the sprayed glass dry, then cure.






Chalboard framesPop the chalkboard painted glass back into the frames.






Hang chalkboard frameIf you want to hang the signs on the back of a chair, thread ribbon through the picture hanging loop on the back of the frame.







Mr. Mrs. Chalkboard signsTa da!





To make these, begin with photo frames, preferably ones with slightly ornate, even gilded, frames–if they aren’t gilded, you can spray them to be. (The 99 Cents Only store is a great source.) Remove the glass and spray one side of it with aerosol chalkboard paint. Dry for fifteen minutes then spray a second coat. Let dry for at least two hours, then pop the glass back into the frame, painted side facing out. Important: Do not skip the next, crucial stop of curing the surface of your chalkboard by rubbing its face with the side of a piece of chalk and then wiping it off with a clean dry cloth lest whatever you write be forever etched into its surface.






Paper strips of brown paper bagsUse a paper cutter or scissors to cut 1/2″ x 12″ slices from a paper grocery sack.








Paper bag strip love napkin band DIY wedding decorSuggestion.






Paper wedding bands: Decorate any linen or paper dinner napkin that has been folded into a rectangle with a personalized band. Use a paper cutter to slice 1/2″ wide x 12″ long strips from the plain, unprinted side of brown paper grocery bags. Wrap the band around the center of the napkin and secure it to itself on the underside of the napkin with a piece of clear tape. Use your best script or individual letter stamps and a stamp pad to create a special message. Example: “Love”, the wedding date, the first names of the bride and groom connected by an ampersand, or a dot of sealing wax in the center stamped with the couple’s monogram. (For upcoming holidays, this same technique can be used to write, “Thankful” or “Peace”.)







Wedding favor wine jellyThank you to my sister for making this fantastic wine jelly. The “silverware” was plastic cutlery from the 99 Cents Only Store.






Ceremonial sprigs: For a twist on traditional flowers, use sprigs of rosemary, lavender or sage to decorate wedding cupcakes, a tiered wedding cake, or tuck into the aforementioned napkin bands. Lavender, long associated with love, virtue and devotion, has calming properties which may just come in handy on The Big Day.  Sage is linked with wisdom and mortality, but rosemary has the most notable history. Tied to Aphrodite, the goddess of love, and also a symbol of fidelity, brides used to weave it into their wreath headdresses, decorate branches to give as wedding favors, or dip into their wine during toasts. Lasses would sleep with sprigs under their pillows to induce dreams portending their husbands to be. Cautious (and superstitious!) brides slipped sprigs into their partner’s pocket to ensure faithfulness. All three of these herbs grow prolifically, so any of these plants can be purchase for the occasion, stripped of some leaves, and then planted in the garden to commemorate the red-letter day–not to mention seasoning many shared meals to come!






Cork Love Wedding Sign Wedding DecorThis was actually not at our wedding. I randomly saw it a few months ago at a wedding held at a restaurant that I happened to pass by and it was so cute, I could not resist taking a photo and sharing it with you.





Framed!: A large, empty frame from a thrift store or garage sale makes a fun photo prop for wedding pictures. The more ornate, the better. If it’s not already gilded, spray it with gold or silver paint. Guests can take turns holding the frame in front of themselves as they pose. Tip: Attach rows of twine across the back of a large frame, hang it to the wall, and clip plain wooden clothespins to the twine rows. Keep a Polaroid camera on hand (these can be found online) so guests can take selfies and pin them to the twine. The best shots can later be placed into a photo album for the newlyweds.






Mr Mrs chair signsYet another use for chalkboard signs. The chairs were from an estate sale.





Take a seat: Look to your local thrift store for old and interesting wood dining chairs for the bride and groom. If the seats need new fabric, see if they can be unscrewed (from below) and popped out. If so, reupholstery can be as simple as using a staple gun to cover the seat with your favorite fabrics. Tip: Painter’s drop cloths are an inexpensive alternative to linen; natural burlap is nice, too. If the wood structure has seen better days, painting it white or gold–or any one of your wedding colors–will quickly refresh it. Just so it doesn’t look too new, you may want to consider strategically sanding the freshly painted wood to give it a gently aged appearance. Tie the chair back with strands of ribbon and signs reading “His ” and “Hers” or “Mr.” and “Mrs.”.






Holding bouquetsMy dress was second-hand, but I loved it. Here are my ladies of honor holding our DIY bouquets. See the tutorial on how to make your own here.





Say “Yes” to a designer dress: Without growing broke, that is. Bridal dresses usually come two ways: expensive and beautiful or cheap and they look it. As of last year, Santa Barbara got another option with the arrival of The White Peacock bridal consignment store. Because these dresses have been worn (usually once) and dry-cleaned, they look brand new. And because most of them are designer names, they’re jaw-droppingly beautiful, which means you can be too, without the price tag to match. Tip: After your wedding, if you’re not inclined to keep your dress for posterity, you can always sell it back to recoup some of that wedding expense!





wedding centerpiece ferns succulents tree tumpStumps and succulents: a perfect, inexpensive, combo!






Stumps and succulents: This project can take some foresight, but if you have time, keep an eye out for any neighbors who are felling trees. If they are kind enough to let you have any of the refuse, stumps make great centerpiece bases for a rustic wedding (add a glass hurricane, candle, and/or flower arrangement on top) and can be used as risers on buffet tables. Instead of renting a wedding cake riser, an extra-large stump adds a touch of nature–and saves you a rental fee! Succulents, in lieu of flowers, not only hold up to the heat of a summer wedding, but need not be tossed. A bouquet or centerpiece of succulents will re-root if planted in your garden and will continue to commemorate your special day.






Happily Ever After light signThis sign was inspired by the Lite-Brite kids’ toy from our childhoods. It was as easy to make as drilling holes into a plywood board, painting the board black, and inserting Christmas lights.





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DIY bandana pillow project!


There was once a smallish outdoor pillow.




This pillow…





Outdoor furniture pillow




Not bad.



But not so good.



It was just sort of…






And that wasn’t doing anything for our outdoor seating. Enter: the inexpensive bandana ($1 each at Walmart or the Dollar Tree).





Bandana pillows on bench




And some down and dirty sewing!  No cutting necessary as these bandanas come 22″ x 22″. I used 22″ x 22″ pillow inserts (the finished cases were 21 1/2″ x 21 1/2″) which made for a nice, snug fit.





Bandana pillows on outdoor seat




You know the sewing drill, right? Simply place the fabric front to front; sew all sides together except one and turn inside out to reveal your, almost, finished pillow.



Now about that final side. In an alternate universe where I am a more adept sewer or someone was, kindly, doing the sewing for me, that last side would get a zipper because when you can remove your pillowcases you can A) launder them and B) frequently change your cases allowing you to alter the look of your decor as often as you see fit.




Stack of colorful bandana pillows



However, since I was my own labor force, I opted for the easy route of sewing a long, single strand of Velcro, in lieu of a zipper, (sewing the “girl” part of the Velcro to one upper lip of the opening and the “boy” part to the other), and calling them sufficiently finished.



JB built that side table using wood salvaged from our former pergola: 4 x 4s for the legs, 2 x 6s for the edges and 2 x 4s for the top. I love it now, but once the legs develop a patina to match the top, I think it will look even better.





Coral bandana pillow on chair



At $2 per pillow for the bandanas (one for the front, one for the back, and you may want to consider using a different color for each so one pillow provides two different color options), this might be the least expensive pillow you ever make. Imagine using them on a twin bed to add more color to a kid’s room or on an all-white bed in a guest bedroom in a rustic-style home. Note: If you use them outside for entertaining, I’d suggest pulling them in as soon as the last guest leaves or the somewhat thin fabric will likely fade before someone can say,



“Cute pillows!”




Happy Monday!



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